How to travel to Kauai, Nature Style

View from the Kalalau Trail - untouched and unretouched!

View from the Kalalau Trail - untouched and unretouched!

Although I’m a big time traveler, I never blog about the places I go to. I usually feel like everything has been written 100 times elsewhere and that I’ll just participate in oversaturing internet with white noise by adding a new post. But…this time…I’ve realized that I do have a knack for travel (thanks to a 20+ years experience in the field heyheyhey) and Kauai has amazed me so much I’d love to share a bit of advice to help you have the best experience possible! So here we go…

First off, I warn you: traveling to Kauai is not cheap. As I hadn’t had a proper holiday in two years, I decided to let the bucks free for this one, but if you’re looking for a cheap place to go, South East Asia just is your best bet. The Hawaian islands being isolated, everything is imported and prices are expensive. That being said, there are a few hacks that can make your trip considerably cheaper and even pretty affordable. After giving you the highlights about Kauai and a summary of my journey, I’ll provide some advice on how to save up and make this trip eco.

FYI I will be mentioning a few brands for informative purpose. I am not sponsored by any of them so my advice is as neutral as it can get. Also, all photos are taken with my Samsung S9+ and unretouched, unless otherwise noted. Alas the reign of iPhones.

Kauai overview

I traveled to Kauai with my good friend Vanessa. We both wanted to go somewhere in Hawaii, and give ourselves time to explore an island specifically. Kauai in particular convinced us because it seemed to be the one with the most beautiful nature. I haven’t been to the other islands so I can’t compare, but if you’re looking for nature, I do think it was the best bet. Not only is the nature magnificent, but also it’s preserved from big resorts - which I’m allergic to. It’s also way less crowded than I expected (especially since we traveled late July - early August). The services offer is very touristic and it’s hard to find a rustic feeling, yet we didn’t feel like we were in a tourist trap. Plus, you can avoid those areas by booking the right place and cooking your food - which most people do anyway!

Also, many people believe Hawaii is solely a honeymooners’ destination. This was the great debate of the trip. Although my friend believes Kauai is made for honeymooners, I personally think it can be a backpackers’ dream, because of how secluded (some would say romantic) it is. If you wanna party hard and meet hot surfers, you might wanna go to another island, but people who live in Hawai are so welcoming you will have a blast taking your time and meeting different people from all walks of life.

Logistics/What you should know

  • Plane ticket

We traveled for a week, from Los Angeles. The trip was planned incredibly last minute (full disclosure, we started booking plane tickets and hotels 3 days before departure) and yet we made it. I always use Skyscanner as that’s where I consisently find the cheapest tickets, however if you have more time I’d suggest you use Pomelo, a low-key website that provides extremely good deals if you are ready to book fast. My ticket cost me $507 dollars, with a direct flight from United Airlines - which was actually cheaper than any flight I looked for to Mexico.

  • Housing

I don’t believe there’s much of a plane ticket price change for traveling last minute, however the one reason why you should book your trip early on is the housing: places get booked out early and although we loved where we stayed, our last minute choices turned out to be limited (and expensive). Renting on Airbnb is very smooth, except that you need to take cleaning fees and taxes into account, and that usually raises the price to 30% more. Plus these fees are extremely variable so your best bet is to select a few accomodations you like and look at the total for your dates. Some more expensive ones will turn out cheaper than you think (and vice versa). Also, appartments in condos usually have higher cleanings fees - which is kind of a good news because I do not recommend staying in a condo - it just ruins the vibe.

If you do camp - which we didn’t - you’re sorted from these issues, and get much cheaper accomodation. Yet, for some areas, you wanna make sure you get park passes: some of them do need to be booked in advance.

  • Car rental

You’ll 100% need a car so don’t even try to bypass this. You can rent your car online (I usually use carrentals.com) however be aware that, as everywhere else in the United States, you’ll have to pay an added fee of approx 15$ per day (which is hidden from all websites!) for liability. If you rent from abroad, it might be included in your rental already, just make sure to double check!

Also, you won’t need an SUV but it can be useful if you use dirt roads - which are only for specific remote beaches.

  • What to bring:

  • Clothes

If you travel in summer, I believe a sweater will be enough (haven’t used one once). People also recommend ski jackets but honestly, the rain is part of the experience and won’t make you cold. So if you wanna stay dry, just don’t go to Kauai. If you’re ok with a bit of mud and getting soaking wet on a hike, just bring your bikini (plus it’s better for your tan)!

There aren’t many opportunities to get fancy so you can chill on the make-up and glamorous clothes. That being said, if you wanna pimp yourself, you can go to a nice restaurant. But expect it to be more bohochich than paparazzi style, and you will find people wearing flipflops everywhere you go - that’s just what Kauai is, and it’s great!

  • Sunscreen / Mosquito repellent

You will wanna bring sunscreen (I’m very proud of having spent a burn-free holiday) but be careful of taking the kind that doesn’t harm the oceans. The corals are already pretty destroyed so don’t make it worst. If you don’t like mosquitos, bring product too, although you can also buy the magical local Noni product there - all natural and soothing, yeay!

  • Instagramming (lol)

OK I’m really not the type to travel for the gram, but the landscapes and lighting are so outstanding you will not resist taking some cool photos. I would spare the long flowy dresses as you will just look a bit stupid with them, but feel free to bring all shades of swimming suits to contrast with the sparking blue, and some very sexy snickers for your hikes!

What to do

Kauai is definitely an outdoorsy trip: nature, nature, nature (and a random, disappointing lighthouse). Here’s what you can - and will - do:

  • Chill out by the beach

Miles of secludes beaches await you. There are thousands of stunning beaches - I’ll mention my favorites below - so enjoy! However, without being anal, be careful with the swimming: the ocean can be dangerous even when seemingly calm, and one of the beaches is considered the most deadly in the world. So check around you if people swim before you do!

  • Hike hike hike

I hope you like long walks! If not, aerm… Most hikes are freely accessible, but a few of them require a permit (in particular the famous Kalalau trail).

  • Helicopter

  • Boat & watersports

  • Snorkel

  • Surf

  • Stargazing

I’m not a star-freak but I honestly regretted not knowing more about constellations as you can see everything so clearly. It’s unreal.

Where to stay

Since Kauai is a small island, some people choose to stay in one single place for their whole stay. I say: don’t. There are so many places to go to and only one highway, so the driving can get long and boring. We were happily surprised by the lack of traffic (I read horror stories but we were fine). My best advice is: plan where you wanna go, and decide where to stay from there. One of the nicest things about Kauai is how easily secluded it can get while having everything easily accessible, so take advantage of it and rent a hotel/airbnb or camping (more info on that later) in an isolated spot instead of a condo. This way, you’ll enjoy breathtaking views and pristine nature while being 10 minutes away from shops and restaurants.

Summary

OK now onto the good stuff! What did we actually do? Here you go!

Day 1

We spent our first two nights in a Anahola Airbnb - and loved it. Anahola is one of those places people don’t think about, there’s nothing there and that’s the point as Hawaii is one of the darkest places on earth and you get to see countless constellations.

We took the first day easy and our highlights were:

What a gem! We actually went there twice. Ok it’s not “local” food but this is such a special place - especially if you love Hemingway (who himself hated Hawai - how ironic). The owners are a German couple who settled here and created their own farm-to-table restaurant, with its unique charm and a touch of authenticity everywhere. Bonus: if you stay at the big table and wear a friendly smile, you’ll end up chatting with other seasoned travelers who might share their secrets with you (or you might share yours). Also, the house tart was divine.

Cost: check the meny, you lazy!

  • Maha’ulepu Heritage Trail

 
Maha’Ulepu Heritage Trail: as good as it gets

Maha’Ulepu Heritage Trail: as good as it gets

 

We started the trail on Shipwreck’s beach. It’s an absolutely beautiful hike with views over blue ocean, brown rocks and green vegetation. There is an easier way - a solid trail, within trees - or the harder way makes you walk (and sometimes hop) on rocks - and it’s totally worth it. You can make it as short or long as you want - and contrary to what other blogs write, there is pretty much always a way to access the beach by car.

Cost: free.

  • Maha’lepu Beach

Mahaulepu Beach is a cute beach, and I personally loved it because of how few people were there and the vibe of those people (and also it was the first beach we went to). Completely worth going if you do the Maha’ulepu Heritage Trail (and much nicer than Shipwreck beach if you don’t care for snorkeling) but not worth touring for.

Cost: free

  • Sleeping Giant

That‘s actually a fail on my side: I was planning on waking up at 4.30am to catch the sunrise on top of the volcano…but of course I overslept and missed it. From all what I’ve read and heard, it’s definitely a cool hike if you like ascending!

Cost: free (but you might want to double check). No need to book in advance.

Day 2

  • Secret Falls

 
The canoe ride towards the Secret Falls

The canoe ride towards the Secret Falls

 

I initially wasn’t very interested in these but they turned out to be an awesome adventure and our first interraction with the wonderful wilderness of Kauai!

As we didn’t book in advance, we just showed up at the Kamokila village, and they made us come back 1.5 hours later once they had available canoes. Yes I said canoes: there’s a reason why these are called Secret Falls.

Below is an approximate path I drew: i nred the canoe ride, in black the walk towards the falls. I think you can also take the Kuamo’o Nounou Trail, but the canoe drive was sublime and added an adventurous vibe to the hike.

The hike isn’t really hard and you don’t need a guide or a book whatsoever, but you definitely want to take waterproof shoes and get ready for mud and rain (and if it rains, it RAINS). Worst case scenario you can do it all with barefeet but I wouldn’t recommend it. If you’re lucky (I was), you can borrow shoes left by generous former hikers. The canoe rental place will provide you with a waterproof bag so you don’t need one. That being said, if you’re one of those annoying people who only travel for photos (just kidding…or am I?) and you don’t believe advertisers who say the iPhone is waterproof, you might wanna purchase a pouch in advance so you don’t have to go back and forth to the waterproof bag.

As I said, the hike isn‘t difficult but it isn’t for the faint harted. One thing I love about Kauai is that it gives you this adventure feeling while being all in all very risk-free. There’s not weird animal around (I still don’t know if it’s because of the seclusion of the island or some secret CIA life eradiction test) and the trail is not dangerous, but of course you better be mindful and not risk your luck. You’ll also have to pass a river with a stream. It shouldn’t be too strong, but then again, cross at your own risk. Also, there was a very helpful rope on our way to the waterfall…but it was gone when we went back. So there’s that. Adventure, I say!

All in all, the canoe ride is approx 15 minutes, and the hike about an hour, so you can count 2.5 hours total + the time you’ll spend at the waterfall itself. The cool thing is that there’s virtually nobody there! The manager of the place told me he thinks it’s the emptiest hike of the island (somehow he seemed happy about it, I guess he’s not very profit oriented and that’s great). Also, the waterfall is pretty risk-free to swim in. Just don’t get near the rocks signs, and look for some magic secret cave behind the cascade! Enjoy and let me know your thoughts!

Cost: $35 per person (and don’t forget to buy waterproof shoes). We didn’t book in advance but you might as well to avoid waiting and make sure to have a spot.

Also, you can have a look at the Hopaek'a’a Falls, but the lookout is kind of ruined by the bars and people - it’s on the way so you might as well stop there but the Secret Falls are definitely more fun!

Secret Falls Trail.png
Lydgate: rough and raw

Lydgate: rough and raw

  • Lydgate State Park Beach

That was our elected beach while we waited for our ride. Loved the wilderness but you gotta embrace that. Basically, you want to make sure you can swim.

There were Hawaiian people swimming next to me which is always the best sign - and once I was in, it was just the best feeling ever to face the Pacific Ocean and feel part of all the elements. But the place is windy and, again, you want to make sure it is swimmable before entering. Accidents come easy.

Cost: free.

  • The ride towards Princeville

Our third night was in Princeville, so after the waterfalls, we headed towards the big touristic paradise —— eeeh, if I could redo it, I wouldn’t have stayed there, but rather around Wainiha or towards Anahola. Princeville (and Hanalei) are just a bunch of compounds and golf courses. Nothing against it, but I think staying there defeats the whole point of Kauai: nature. If you want a nice resort, shops and nice restaurants, you’ll have a better time in Maui or Big Island.

That being said, the ride there and the whole area is breathtaking. Kauai is nicknamed the Garden Island for a reason: the greenery is just unmatched and the old mountains are simply majestuous.

Cost: gas & car.

  • AMA Restaurant

Once in Hanalei, go to AMA Restaurant if you want good food. Granted, Ramen is not the first thing that comes to mind when going to Kauai but they also serve Poke bowls, and let’s be honest, who doesn’t want a little bit a that Bali green vibe from time to time (yes, I know Ramen are not from Bali if you’ve been to Ubud and you try the AMA Ramen, you’ll get my point). Also, the views are just breathtaking. We also tried the relatively famous Bar Acuda restaurant but that was just mueh so you can scrap that off your to-do list (my theory: when places get too famous in Kauai, hords of people start going and the quality and vibe decreases, so you’ve got to go with your guts and not with tripadvisor).

Cost: approx $20 for a main dish (unfortunately pretty standard on this island). They are pretty big so technically you could make a take away with the second half (but I like to eat so I didn’t).

The view from AMA Restaurant Parking lot (for real)

The view from AMA Restaurant Parking lot (for real)

Day 3 & 4

Days 3 and 4 were the chilled days to enjoy the beach and relax before the big Kalalau trail. It’s nice to wonder around Hanale and Princeville, the lookouts are perfectly incredible and there are some pretty awesome beaches (see below). That being said, they were not the most memorable days and if I would do it again, I would spend less time in the north or at least around Princeville and Hanale’s tourists. But while you’re there, you might as well enjoy the boho shops. You can also stop by the famous Lighthouse and Wildlife Refuge but they really aren’t that special - whereas the Hanalei Valley Lookout is (and you are there you can venture into a quick drive into the Hanale Valley).

  • Secret Beach

Secret Falls, Secret Beach, lots of secrets on this island, right? Secret Beach isnt really that secret as every guide and blog talks about it, so I was expecting hords of people. But damn was I wrong, this place is so empty and totally worth it! You’ll find it easily on Google Maps, and will have to walk for 15 minutes down a trail - but it’s not hard as long as you are in okay shape, and totally worth it. Just one thing: be careful about the water! I did a bit of swimming but again, you never know how it is (maybe some other people are luckier though, as we were there right before a hurricane, so the streams were probably pretty messed up).

Cost: free.

And voila ze secret beach…lots of people as you can see - and the beach carries on with beauty and emptiness on the other side

And voila ze secret beach…lots of people as you can see - and the beach carries on with beauty and emptiness on the other side

  • Tunnels Beach

Tunnels Beach is another highlight of the island. I liked it but didn’t love it. The snorkeling is supposed to be better and the swimming easier but it has less charm. I did also hear about Rock Quarry Beach and Moloa’a beaches which are supposed to be awesome.

Cost: free.

foodpic taken by yours truly (colours retouched)

foodpic taken by yours truly (colours retouched)

In my quest for good food, I found a place called Kauai Ono, a farm-to-table restaurant with the great concept of having everyone sitted at the same table and a single menu. All the food is local which can explain the price ($60 per menu). So it’s guaranteed fresh and local - which is also pretty cool for people like me who love meat but not the meat industry, as the beef and pork raised locally is guaranteed to have a pretty good life. All-in-all, I would do it again because it’s a fun concept and the food is good, but there is a little bit of a canteen feeling which makes you wonder if all that really was worth the price.

Cost: $60 per person, all included (but BYOB policy). Book as early as you can as the place only serves food twice a week and has a bit of a reputation (apparently you will sometimes run into Hollywood stars ouhlalala!). Also, if you absolutely want to dress up a little, this place is the place where you can. Beware mosquito bites though!




Day 5

Days 1 to 4 were a little bit of a warm-up for the holidays. But day 5 is when the fun truly started. I hope you will enjoy the read and that it will inspire you on your next travel to Kauai!

  • Kalalau trail

The main question I want to tackle is: should you do it or not - and how? The Kalalau Trail is known as the highlight of Kauai - and to a certain extent it is, but there is a cost to it, and I’ve seen too many unprepaired people suffer or just abandon the trail. So please, be aware that the hike is not just a walk in the park. It is definitely doable if you’re in an okay shape, but if you plan on going to the waterfall (the main trail), you need to be prepared to walk for about 7 hours!

So here are a few stuff that might help you:

waterfalls.gif
  1. Yes, it’s a beautiful hike, but most of it is within vegetation and alongside streams. View-wise, the “only” breathtaking moments are approx around mile 1 (when you see a bit of the Napali coast - more on that later) and the waterfalls themselves (which are only nice if you do like waterfalls - and there are plenty of other waterfalls on the island).

  2. As always in Kauai, the weather navigates between hot and sunny to hot and wet. Be prepare for weather changes and big time mud. Try to start the hike early: I started at 7am and was very happy to. On my way back at 1pm I would see people just starting - needless to say there were in for some hot mess.

  3. You will pass through streams so have some waterproof shoes but also hiking shoes (preferably the same so you don’t have to carry too much with you).

  4. Book in advance. Since last year’s floods, jurisdiction has changed and you can’t access the site without a pass. Here’s where you need to get your ticket (and your shuttle ticket if you don’t have parking space and want to avoid a $40 ride to the trail and then another back). Tickets become available 2 weeks in advance, at midnight local time.

  5. If you want to do the longer trail and camp, you will need a permit. Those can take up to one year to get, so check asap.

  6. There is absolutely no service miles before starting the hike, so if you don’t have your way back arranged, you’re gonna have to count on kind people to take you back (which might actually work and spare you money!).

  7. The first beach you will come across before hiking is the notorious Ke’e beach. This one is safe and swimmable. However, during the hike, at the first (and biggest) stream that you pass, you will see another beautiful beach, Hanakapi’ai Beach. It is so beautiful you will be very tempted to swim (especially on your way back). By all means, don’t enter the water as it is the deadliest beach in Kauai - some say in the world. Basically, the current can be extremelly strong and since the levels of water suddenly drop, you might be walking right next to the shore one second, and the next thing you’ll know is you’re 2 miles away from the shore, taken by the current with only cliffs in view - even if you’re a strong swimmer. If you’re lucky, you might reach the next beach that’s 13 miles away, but you’re just more likely to die of extenuation - not a pretty way to end your trip if you ask me.

Watching over the most dangerous beach in the world.

Watching over the most dangerous beach in the world.

So, with all that being said, should you do the Kalalau Hike?

Of course, my answer is: ABSOLUTELY - if, and only if you enjoy hiking. Again, you’ll see amazing views at other moments of the trip, and the walk is as heavy on the body as any other long walk is (I actually forgot I had a weak knee and the hike reminded me of it the hard way). But if you love wilderness, getting lost in your thoughts and nature, pack some water, bring sunscreen (again, eco-friendly), sunglasses, food and good waterproof shoes - and you’re good to go!

You will find yourself in the heart of the old lady of Hawaii and - thanks to the new jurisdiction, you will not be surrounded by many people. As the hours will go by, you will keep running into the same treckers and start create the bonds that only nature, (mild) hardship and mud create. You will feel that you are in a special place that remains so untouched. And once you’re at the waterfall, if you feel like it, you will go for a swim and experience this beautiful wonder!

On your way back, you’ll stop by Ke’e beach to congratulate yourself on the treck, and then on to your next adventures, with peace of mind and a piece of gold in your mind.

Day 6

After a chilled afternoon, we headed to our next and last destination: the south west, with the Napali Coast and the Weimea Canyon.

We were hoping to stay in one of the canyon’s cottages (bookable via Airbnb, check on the map next to the Kalalaui lookout) but they were unfortunately fully booked so we stayed in a wonderful B&B next to Weimea. Again, staying in a secluded area in nature is really what you want!

  • Waimea Canyon

We gave a morning to Waimea Canyon but it deserves more if you’re into hiking and exploring. The viewpoints along the road are just…awe. No photo I took could do it justice but here’s a sneak pick to some of the wonders I’ve seen, before the video…

I didn’t get the chance to do the Waimea hike due to a lack of time. I heard it was great but I was a little bit tired of waterfalls, so I passed my way. However, I did the upper hike (which starts at the Pu’u O Kila lookout) and it was far from disappointing - although the focus is on the coast, not the cayon. But you just don’t get tired of any of them.

As for the other recommendations I’ve had, I loved how the higher you drive, the less people you come across. In this island, it’s that simple: literally go the extra mile and you end up alone on top of the world.

Cost: $5 for parking at the viewpoints.

The Waimea Canyon

The Waimea Canyon

View from the Pu’U O Kila lookout

View from the Pu’U O Kila lookout

  • Kalepa Ridge trail

Full disclosure, this trail is officially close and I didn’t get to do it due to lack of time and a sour knee. But damn do I regret it, as it was what I was the most looking forward to! The trail, although closed, is used (at your own risk) and is supposed to have some of the most fantastic views over the Napali coast. If, like me, you’re a little loco about this coastline (and why not!), you’ll understand the excitement. It is a short hike (1 to 1.5 miles) but it is pretty demanding - however apparently really fun. Although it is located in the north west of the island, you will access it through the Waimea canyon area (I believe the starting point is the Kalalau lookout). Use at your own risk and don’t be too adventurous is noone is in front of you, as some of the ground is less supported than it seems (ie your body pressure might break it and you can fall). More importantly, don’t tell the officials from the park that you plan on going, they will likely not let you. That being said, GO for it and let me know how it was!!!

Cost: free.

  • The Napali coast on a boat

The reason why we could only spend the morning at the Waimea canyon is because we had booked a tour to view the famous Napali coast. There are several options, from catamaran to rafting, and we chose the most adventurous one in order to enter the famous wet caves and to land on one of the secluded beaches.

It was cloudy but I pulled it off! And it was actually pretty warm - I was mostly keeping my T-shirt to avoid getting sunburnt!

It was cloudy but I pulled it off! And it was actually pretty warm - I was mostly keeping my T-shirt to avoid getting sunburnt!

Be it through rafting, catamaran or kayak, I really urge you to take a boat tour to catch the gorgeous Napali coast. It isn’t cheap but definitely worth the adventure, as you have enough time to fully enjoy the experience and admire the coast through all its angles (contrary to the helicopter - more on that later). If you’re into a little history lesson, consider taking the landing option as it will allow you to watch the second biggest archeological site of Hawaii (it’s not very impressive but you will learn more about the history of the islands) and you’ll likely see turtles resting. I enjoyed entering the caves but didn’t find it breathtaking. Finally, the snorkeling is alright but nothing fantastic. What matters is really that you admire the amazing coastline. As the owner of our last hotel told me, “on this island, you can keep seeing the same landscape every day, you still don’t get tired of it after 15 years”. Oh, and also, they’ll take a cool photo of you :-) .

Do keep in mind that the closer the departure boat is to the coast, the less boat drive you’ll need to do before actually seeing the coast. I enjoyed the ride but you can count an hour of full speed boat in the wind to reach the coast - be ready for that!

Cost: $195 for the 6 hour tour (the longest and priciest). There are some cheaper options depending on the options and companies. We booked 3 days in advance but again, it’s better to book earlier if you can. Although if you like your flexbility and are ready to consider a bunch of different options, you’re more than likely to find a tour within short notice.

Day 7

Gloup…our last day of the trip. It was hard to end such a wonderful adventure, however with a 9pm flight, we had plenty of time for some of our highlights: the helicopter ride and Polihale State Park! FYI, we would have turned both around to save time and car drive, but the only helicopter option was in the morning - hence the decision.

  • Helicopter tour

Yes, we went all in for this trip! Our last day started with a helicopter tour booked with Island Helicopters - more precisely the Jurassic Falls Tour. This tour gets you to land at the falls where Jurassic Park was shot - pretty special on paper, but now that I’ve experienced it, I’d say: skip it. It felt odd to land in such a secluded area, and after having walked hours and hours to access the waterfall of the Kalalau trail, just taking a quick helicopter tour to stare at a waterfall felt super weird. So, spare your money and avoid it.

That being said, is a helicopter tour worth it? The price is at a minimum of around $250 per person (and you might need to add taxes) for a one hour tour. The experience is beautiful, definitely: you deeply explore the canyon and the coast line (look at this wonderful photograph by friend took), and access some landscapes that are unreachable otherwise (including the “wettest point on earth”). Also, the sensation of being inside a helicopter is oddly soothing and worth the try if you haven’t ever been in one.

If it’s within your budget and you’ve always wanted to fly in a helicopter, definitely go for it as Kauai’s relatively small size and incredible diversity of landscapes make it the ideal place to tour. But if you’re having doubts or are a little tight, I’d say skip it: there’s so much to take in that I ended up not being able to fully take it all in so quickly. Also, residents and nature seekers have a really hard time with the helicopters as they really ruin the vibe on some of the areas. So, if you skip the helictoper, you’ll make someone happy!

Finally, if you go for it, here is my main advice: it’s reaaaaally hard to stay away from your phone or camera because you want to capture the best moments (and trust me, I’m good at not using my phone in those situations), but try as much as possible to resist the urge: the best - and only - way to really have an amazing time is to fully take it all in! As an alternative, do like me: put your phone somewhere and let it roll so you have decent footage without focusing too much on it.

Cost: too much ($350 per person). Try to book as early as possible to limit costs and get the best timing possible. Also consider booking a boat + helicopter tour with Dolphin, as they offer some of the most competitive packages.

  • Polihale State Park

Now this is what I call a good way to end your trip!

Polihale State Park is actually a beach where you can camp (and I urge you to camp there, as the sunsets and stars must be completely otherworldly). You’ll find it easily on the map: take the highway towards the west and at some point, take the dirt road. It’s better to have a SUV but if you can change a tire, go for it with your sedan - it’s worth taking the risk.

After miles of dirt road, you’ll encounter a pristine beach which, to me, just sums up Kauai in all its majesty. The blues are bluer than blue, the Napali coast’s first mountains appear, there’s pretty much noone else than you, the Pacific Ocean and freedom. Let it fill you up, love the world and thank every second of your life which, somehow, step by step, led you to this very moment.

Cost: free but bring a spare tire in case you need one after the dirt road.

Polihale State Park - no comment needed

Polihale State Park - no comment needed

How to optimlize your traveling

Traveling for cheap

Now that I’ve summed up my activities and highlights, here are a few recommendations I’d give you, fellow traveler, or future me if I get to come back.

As I mentioned, Kauai can get pretty expensive, with $150 to count per night in a B&B or Airbnb, and $20 mains in restaurants. However, except from the boat and the helicopter, most of the activities we did were free or under $5. Also, considering the lack of nice shops (except in Princeville/Hanalei), the temptation to shopping is limited, which works pretty well for your wallet.

If you manage to get fairly priced tickets (more than doable from the West Coast, a little harder if you fly from anywhere else) and you’re ready to camp, you can actually end up travelling on the very cheap side, as camping is lovely and I personally wish I had camped at least 3 of the 7 nights we stayed on the island. Camping sites are either free or under $5 a night, and they are actually the best way to experience the natural joys of Kauai, be it on Polihale State Park, through the long Kalalau trail or in any other area. If you do go for this option, be aware that it can rain pretty hard on Kauai, from a few minutes every 6 hours to an actual long rain which can keep you awake. But the temperature is always smooth, night and day, and the environment isn’t hostile in any other way.

Make the most of it

Last but not least, if I come back, I will definitely spend more time hiking here. I’m not a crazy hiker but I just adored getting lost in the nature here. There are so many trails beyond the most famous ones, and being in them makes you appreciate the magic of this island better.

There are also a few secluded beaches on the Napali coast which are only accessible to the savvy traveler - including the notoriously sacred beach of Honopu, only accessible by swimming (except if you’re filming King Kong). This adds a myth to the place, and I met some people who once in a while take a kayak off the north west, and let themselves drift towards secluded beaches along the coast for a week… Pretty stringent as this means no cell phone, no shower, and survival food for a week - but according to my definition of freedom, that’s the dream. So next time I’m in Kauai, you might find me somewhere on the west side.

Thanks for reading this article. I hope it inspired you to visit the wonderful island of Kauai. Feel free to contact me with any question or leave a comment and let me know if my suggestions helped! Also, follow my crazy - or not so crazy - adventures on Instagram!

















Marine George